Preventing Separation Anxiety

Working proactively to prevent separation anxiety as some families gradually return to work.  

If you've been home for the past two or three months and are planning to return to work soon, we have a few suggestions to make the transition easier for your pet(s). 

Practice leaving when you don't really have to 

Make the cues and signs that you're getting ready to leave meaningless to your pet(s) by doing your leave routine and then staying home. 

For example: Get dressed, get your keys and briefcase or purse, grab a cup of coffee, put your hand on the doorknob and then...  sit down on the couch or your home office and enjoy the coffee :) 

If you do this randomly these signals will not give your dog anxiety with the anticipation of your leaving. 

Practice leaving when you don't have to be gone long 

Do all of the above, then leave for short, but varying and unpredictable lengths of time and at random and varying times of day.  

Don't increase the length of time on a linear fashion.  Instead, go out for 2 minutes, then 1, then 3, then 2, then 4, then 1, then 5, then....  etc.  

When you do have to go for real... 

Give your pet(s) as much exercise and enrichment as you can before and during your absence.  Take your dog for a long morning walk, play with your pet(s), and leave fun things for them to do while you're away.  

Make leaving a good thing 

Don't make a big fuss over your dog when you are leaving or when you first get home.  When you leave, consider providing a puzzle toy, a frozen Kong, something enjoyable to keep your pet(s) busy and create a positive association with your departure.  (For more ideas, visit our Boredom Busters blog post).  

When you get home, calmly and kindly greet your dog, but don't make a huge deal out of arriving home.  Once they are settled, then you can make a fuss over them, play, go for a walk, whatever you normally would do.  

Consider a Dog Walker, Pet Sitter, or Half Day at Doggy Daycare 

If your dog is quite anxious or struggling to adjust, you may want to consider hiring a dog walker to come to your home and take him out mid-day.  Some company, fresh air, and exercise will help break up the day and help him relax.  If walks aren't suitable, consider hiring a pet sitter to visit and check in on your pet(s) while you're at work.  

Click here for advice on choosing the right professional and getting the most out of your dog walking service.

Click here for advice on choosing the right pet sitter for you and your pet(s).  

If you feel more is needed, consider a half-day at a reputable doggy daycare.  Please be very particular and thorough when choosing a daycare, as a negative experience could cause more trouble for you and your dog.  Visit our post on Doggy Daycares for further information and advice.  

Full disclosure:  We offer and promote both of these services, so naturally we will have some biases.  We do, however, recommend other services or companies when prospective clients are seeking out services that we do not offer, or when our services are booked up.  

Seek support from a compassionate, qualified trainer 

If you feel your pet's separation anxiety is worsening, or you feel you need assistance, please contact a compassionate and qualified trainer who is knowledgeable about separation anxiety.  (Click here for our blog post with advice on how to find the right trainer for you and your pet).  

Click here for more resources on preventing and treating separation anxiety in dogs.  

Our Services

Click here for more information on our dog walking services.

Click here for more information on our doggy daycare service.

Click here to learn about how we're working hard to keep everyone safe as we resume services.  Please contact Jillian if you have any questions or concerns.   

 

 

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As for those humans experiencing separation anxiety from their pets....  well, that's outside our area of expertise, but we highly recommend sharing copious photos of your pets online for us to enjoy!  

Stay safe, be well. 

From the Pawsitive Pet Care team. 

About The Author

Jillian is a fear-free certified and CPDT-KA certified animal behaviour specialist and has been working in the animal care and behaviour field since 2009.  

Desensitization to Handling

Helping Your Pet become Comfortable with Various types of Touch 

Important: Before beginning a desensitization program, please click here to read information on dog body language so you are able to read signs that your dog is uncomfortable or afraid while doing these exercises.  A fantastic in-depth book on dog body language is by Brenda Aloff, you can purchase from Amazon.ca, or directly from the author.  For something a little lighter, Truid Rugaas has a wonderful book on calming signals, and she has some excellent information available for free on her website.

If your dog has any potential health issues or you suspect handling issues could be due to physical pain, do not attempt any type of desensitization and consult your veterinarian.

Under the Chin

Dogs who are uncomfortable with touch are often most comfortable having their chin, the front of their neck, and/or their chest scratched or rubbed.  This is because a big hand is not coming down from over their head, and they can see the human that is making contact with them.  Scratch your dog under the chin for 3-5 seconds, then move away.  If your dog comes in for more, give him a good rub under the chin and say “good dog” in a soothing, happy voice.  If you move away and your dog does not come back for more, then leave him be for now.  Next time you pet him under the chin, provide treats as you are doing it so he begins to make positive associations with being touched.

Important notes about giving treats:

• Treats should be 10% or less of your dog's daily diet.  If you're doing training, use soft, enticing, low-calorie treats that can be broken into very small pieces.  Your dog only needs a little taste, not a large bite each time.  If you're unsure, or if your dog is already overweight, consult your veterinarian.  

• If you're needing to do something to your dog (i.e. he has an ear infection and absolutely needs drops in his ear) and need to make it the least distressing experience possible, then distract your dog while you're doing it.  Provide a licki-mat or Kong filled with yummy, healthy treats or canned wet food, or a soft spoon or spatula with some peanut butter.  The goal is to use something that will be long-lasting.  A great video of this approach is available on YouTube.
• Please note that this is not desensitization, this is making an unpleasant process minimally aversive.  In a more ideal situation, we've worked to desensitize our pets to various handling and procedures in a gentle and gradual manner over a long period of time, so that it's much easier when we need to administer medications or do otherwise unpleasant procedures.

• When you're using the treats for gradual desensitization, the order is very important.  The gentle and very brief touch has to happen first, before the treat, then pause, then deliver the treat separately from the touch.  Touch-pause-treat-stop.  The touch must predict the treat in order for the touch to become positively conditioned.  If you give the treat at the same time (as above), the dog will be distracted by the treat, but will not easily make the association.  If the treat comes before the touch, then the treat predicts the touch, and not the other way around.  This is how does can sometimes become mistrustful of hands reaching out offering them treats, they may have a history of being "bribed" into something unpleasant, this is not our goal.  
• A fantastic (although jargon-y) article on this topic is available here

Along the Back

Next, approach your dog from the side (this is least intimidating), and run your hand along his back. Do not touch his head or bum.  Give him treats for standing (or sitting) and allowing you to pet him, then move away.

Petting Your Dog’s Head

Next scratch your dog behind the ears while giving him treats.  If he shows signs of discomfort stop and come back to it later, making sure he’s always getting treats for allowing you to pet him.  If you move away and he comes back for more, pet him all over his head while giving him treats (remember: pet, pause, treat, stop).  Bring your hand in from the side so that he can see it coming, rather than over his head, as this can be very intimidating to a nervous dog.  Do this only for a short period of time so that he is still looking for more, rather than continuing to pet him until he is uncomfortable with it and moves away himself.

**Important: Keep an eye on your dog’s body language:  If he tenses up or growls, stop
immediately.  Do not put yourself at risk for a bite and do not set your dog up to fail.  Dogs cannot speak English, they only have their body language and growls to communicate, so please pay careful attention to what they are telling you and move at your dog’s pace.  When we respect their signals we build trust.

Bum & Tail

Dogs who are uncomfortable with touch are often most concerned about having their rear end and tail touched, likely because they cannot see what is happening (and because of sensitive areas in that region - think about how you might feel if you need a rectal exam from your doctor...).  Again, come in from the side so your dog can still see you, and go very slowly and gently, paying close attention to your dog’s body language.  Start at the shoulders/neck and slowly move your hand down towards the top of his tail.  Keep your hand on him as you move backwards, don't take your hand away and then touch him again, as this can surprise dogs and might cause them to startle or tense up.  Provide lots of treats for your dog allowing this contact (touch, pause, but keep your hand where it is if the dog is comfortable, treat, then stop).  Always stop if your dog is showing signs of being afraid or very uncomfortable.

Collar

Similar to the issues with touching a dog’s head, a lot of dogs have negative associations with having their collars grabbed.  A large hand is coming from above their head, and they often have their collars grabbed when they are in “trouble” or being taken to something unpleasant.  Gently touch your dog’s collar while giving him treats, touching it and sliding your hand under it in different places (touch, pause, but keep your hand where it is if the dog is comfortable, treat, stop).  Use a calm, soothing voice saying “good dog” - and did I mention give lots of treats (small, frequent amounts)?  This will make it much easier to gently guide your dog somewhere you want him to go, or to put him back on leash if he has been playing off-leash.

Paws and Nails 

Another very sensitive area for dogs can be their paws, and many dogs have issues with having their nails trimmed.  This is such a common issue that it will be an entirely separate blog post focusing on teaching paw targeting and desensitization to nail trims.

In the mean time, you can click here to view a helpful video on Fear Free nail trims.

KikoPup also has a fantastic video on desensitizing dogs to grooming and nail trims.


Remember:  These exercises are intended to help your dog to become more comfortable about being touched. This will make your dog’s life much easier, making vet visits, grooming, and interactions with humans much less stressful for him. This will also keep your family safer as a dog that is comfortable with touch is less likely to bite.

Please communicate with people if your dog is nervous and be an advocate for your dog.  If he is looking afraid, remove him from the situation.  Set yourself and your dog up for success – you will strengthen your relationship with your dog and help build his trust and confidence.

If you are unsure about how to do this, or if your dog has severe aversion to touch, please contact a competent and compassionate trainer to help you.  If you don't know how to find a qualified trainer, click here to read our blog post on finding a trainer.

If you are interested in our video consultations, please visit www.pawsitivepooch.ca/video-consultations.html to learn more.

If your dog has any potential health issues or you suspect handling issues could be due to physical pain, do not try desensitization and consult your veterinarian.

About The Author

Jillian is a fear-free certified and CPDT-KA certified animal behaviour specialist and has been working in the animal care and behaviour field since 2009.  

Visit us on Facebook to learn more about Pawsitive Pet Care!

Click to visit our website

Desensitization to Head Collar

Helping your Pet Adjust to Wearing a Head Collar

Desensitization to Head Collar (i.e. Halti or Gentle Leader)

Head collars can be great management tools while you are working on polite leash walking with your dog; they can help keep you both safe on walks and reduce the pulling on your arm and shoulder, they can also help while you are working on training for dogs who are reactive, or dogs who like to try to eat things they shouldn't while out and about.  For some dogs, they can take some getting used to.  Most dogs aren’t immediately comfortable with something placed over their nose and may paw at the head collar or rub their face on the ground or other objects in an effort to remove it.

Positive Associations

Never punish your dog for trying to paw at or rub the head collar.  You want to create positive associations with wearing it so your dog can get used to it and become comfortable with having it put on his nose.

The Right Size

Make sure the head collar is the right size for your dog.  You can bring him to the store and have him try it on before you buy it and ask for help fitting it if you’re not sure what size he needs.  The head collar should be loose enough that you can slide one or two fingers under the band behind the ears, but not so loose that it slides up into your dog’s eyes or that he could back out of it.  Try to pull the nose loop over the tip of his nose - if it can slide off, then it's too loose.

Step 1

Put a treat through the nose loop of the head collar so that your dog has to stick his nose through to get the treat.  Give him the treat and remove the head collar (out of sight).  Each time hold the loop over his nose a second longer before giving him the treat.  When the head collar goes away, the treat bar is closed.  When the head collar comes out, the treat bar is open again.  Keep these sessions very short and sweet to begin with, you can just do a few trials before each meal, or a few times per day when your dog is relaxed.

Step 2

Once your dog is comfortable with the first step, then clip the head collar behind the ears and feed your dog a few treats, then remove it again.  Do this a number of times a day, for only about 20-30 seconds at first, then slowly increase the length each time.  Give your dog a few treats and remove the head collar before he gets to the point of wanting to paw at it or rub his nose on things, the goal is to "quit while you're ahead" and end on a positive note.

Step 3

Once your dog can have the head collar on for a longer period of time, put the head collar on and give him his meal, adding a few treats to the bowl to make it extra special.  Let him eat his food while wearing the head collar and remove it as soon as he has finished.  If your dog will not eat with the head collar on, go back to step 2 and work on that for a while longer.  Keep in mind that you want the head collar to have positive associations, so go at your dog’s pace and reward heavily when he is wearing it.

Step 4

Take your act on the road: once your dog is able to eat a meal with the head collar on, start using it for very short walks.  Remember to give him treats for putting it on, and bring some treats along with you on your walks.  If he starts to rub or paw at his nose, simply redirect him: call his name in a cheerful voice to get his attention, pick up your walking pace slightly, then give him a treat for paying attention to you and moving forward.  If your dog is rolling on the ground and absolutely refusing to move, go back to step 3 and give him more time to get used to it.  The end goal is safer, more comfortable walks for both of you so you want to make sure you’re both enjoying the benefits of the head collar and it doesn’t become a battle.  Keep these walks short, sweet, and fun and then gradually increase the length of time your dog wears the head collar.

You'll know you're on the right track if your dog has an excited reaction when you pull out the head collar.  He should be thinking "oh goody, treats!" and "oh goody, walk time!" when he sees it.

About The Author

Jillian is a fear-free certified and CPDT-KA certified animal behaviour specialist and has been working in the animal care and behaviour field since 2009.  

Visit us on Facebook to learn more about Pawsitive Pet Care!

Click to visit our website

Photo Credit: Audrey Fear

Desensitization to Muzzle

Teach your Dog to be Comfortable Wearing a Muzzle

Proactivity

Start out by desensitizing your dog to a muzzle before you actually need it.  This way you won’t be in a hurry to get it on your dog and you’ll have plenty of time to allow him to get used to it.

If your dog is going to be wearing the muzzle for any length of time I highly recommend a basket muzzle so that he can pant properly and accept treats through the holes.

Remember: putting a muzzle on your dog is not meant to be punishing and it does not automatically mean your dog is aggressive.  It is a precaution to keep your dog and others safe.

Positive Associations

The first time you show your dog the muzzle, just hold it out for him to sniff.  When he sniffs say “yes” in a calm, quiet, soothing voice (or click if you use a clicker), then give him a high-value treat (something he really loves that will be reserved especially for muzzle training).

Next, put a little peanut butter or wet dog food inside the muzzle (or hold a spoon through the holes) and let him stick his nose in to lick it out.  Don’t be in a hurry to get the muzzle on properly, try to hold it still so your dog can enjoy the treat without being worried about the muzzle.

This might be all you do the first time.  Many short sessions are much more effective than a few long sessions.  Try to end on a positive note so your dog has good memories of the muzzle next time you bring it out.  You want him to see the muzzle and think “oh goody, treat time!”

Shaping

The goal of shaping is to have your dog place his nose inside the muzzle voluntarily so you don’t have to wrestle it onto him.  Hold the muzzle out again.  When he sniffs, click and treat (or say “yes” and treat).  Then wait for him to put his nose in a little further, then click and treat, then a little further and so on.  If he is hesitant to put his nose in, help him out by holding a treat through the hole to encourage him.

Duration 

Once your dog is placing his nose all the way inside voluntarily, slowly increase the length of time between rewards.  Hold the muzzle out, have him put his nose in for three seconds, then click and treat.  The next time count to five seconds in your head, then click and treat, then 7 seconds, and so on.  Take breaks between each step, you can practice this before each meal time for just a minute or two, remember to keep the sessions very short and positive and let your dog set the pace.  You can take breaks for play time as a reward.

Fitting

Once your dog is able to hold his nose inside for at least 15 seconds, start getting him used to having the straps done up.  Keeping the straps very loose, just place them behind his ears but don’t do them up just yet, click and treat your dog for allowing the straps to be placed behind his ears.  Practice doing them up as it can take time for people to get used to fumbling with the straps.  If you can work with a helper have one person holding the straps while the other provides reinforcement for your dog.  Keep the straps loose while you’re learning how to do them up smoothly, rewarding your dog each step along the way, and taking breaks for play time in between.

Once you’re able to put them behind his ears and do them up without difficulty, then you can start to adjust the straps to fit properly, remember to reward your dog heavily for this process.  The straps should fit loose enough that you can slide two fingers under the strap, but tight enough that the muzzle doesn’t slide around on his face and he is not able to paw it off.

Keep it Up

Once you’re able to put the muzzle on and reward your dog, bring the muzzle out frequently for refresher sessions.  If the muzzle sits gathering dust and isn’t brought out again until an emergency situation arises, it’s likely your dog will not be used to wearing it anymore.  It only takes a minute or two each day of putting the muzzle on and rewarding the dog to maintain the positive association.

Important

Once your dog can wear the muzzle comfortably, this does not replace training.  He may feel better about wearing the muzzle, but this does not help him feel better about whatever was threatening to him and making him a risk for biting in the first place.

If your dog has bitten or threatened to bite under certain circumstances, contact a certified professional dog trainer to help desensitize your dog to that situation.  This will help lower his stress levels as well as yours.

If you are concerned about your dog's behaviour, please visit our website for more information on professional training services.

Visit us on Facebook to learn more about us and "like" us for great training tips, adorable dog pictures, and more!


A great video on Teaching a Dog to Wear a Muzzle is available from Chraig Patel at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1FABgZTFvHo

Chraig Patel, BSc (Hons), PGCert (CAB), CPBC, DipCABT - Domesticated Manners

 About the Author:

Jillian is a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT-KA), meaning her knowledge on animal learning theory, husbandry, health, ethology, training equipment, and instructing skills have all been evaluated to the standard of the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers.  This also includes adherence to a code of ethics and to the humane hierarchy for animal training. 

Jillian is a Fear-Free Certified Professional.