Barking: The Talkative Dog

Is your dog’s barking driving you (and your neighbours) a little crazy? Waking the baby at nap time? Expanding on my previous post on Barking in the Home, here are some ideas that I hope will help!

Barking is a tough behaviour to address because barking is what we call a self-reinforcing behaviour: it often feels good for the dog to bark.  Dogs bark for a variety of reasons: boredom, excitement, fear/alarm barking, to solicit attention, being protective or territorial, just to name a few. There are two approaches for dealing with this behaviour, and I recommend doing both: management and training an alternative behaviour.

Management Options: 

• Don't leave the dogs outside unsupervised, let them out for a potty and then bring them back in. Take them for walks on leash and play indoor brain games for exercise and stimulation so they are not allowed to continue practicing this behaviour. 
• Plant shrubs or flowers, add fencing, or add something along your fence line that somewhat obstructs your dogs' view of your neighbour to reduce the stimulation and trigger for this barking.

Training Options: 

• Train an alternative behaviour for the specific triggers, such as seeing your neighbour. While inside the house, teach your dog the behaviour you want him to do instead of barking, such as “go to mat” or "touch" (target nose to hand) for example: 

• Once your dogs have mastered the preferred behaviour in the house, go outside with some kibble or treats in your pocket along with your clicker if you use one. First practice the behaviour when no one else is around (for example, on a day off when most people are at work). Allow your dog to get very good at the behaviour under very low distraction first before practicing on a busy Saturday afternoon when the whole neighbourhood is out to tempt him to bark. 
• When your dog notices something (turns head towards a sound, perks ears up, etc.), call them and ask for their preferred behaviour before they start barking. If this is not possible, don’t worry, still reward them once they perform the desired behaviour. After enough repetitions the dog will start to catch on and will more and more quickly offer the alternative behaviour. 
• You can try any alternative behaviour you like: sit, down, mat, watch me (eye contact), or go get a toy. I like go get a toy, touch, or lay down the best because a dog is much less likely to bark when they are doing these behaviours. 
• The downside to this is that you have to be outside with your dogs and on alert at all times during your training period (it can take about 5-6 weeks to break old habits), which is why it's a very good idea to utilize the management techniques listed above in combination with your behaviour modification so that you have fewer opportunities for your dogs to practice the undesired behaviour. 

What to Avoid: 

• Please don’t hit, scold, or otherwise punish your dog for barking. Barking is a completely natural dog behaviour and they don’t understand that neighbours may write letters and babies wake up from naps. They are just doing something that comes naturally to them. Not to mention, yelling and shouting may only amp the dog up further and make him believe you are joining in on the noise. 
• Please, never ever use an anti-bark collar (especially a shock collar, but even a citronella collar). Dogs may bark because they are bored, afraid, stressed or excited. If a dog is bored or stressed is it fair or helpful to punish him? We chose to bring the dog into our home, so it is our responsibility to provide adequate exercise and mental enrichment to help the dog lead a full life. 
• If the dog is stressed or fearful, punishment will only increase his stress and fear and could possibly cause further emotional or psychological issues. 
• If the dog is excited, do we really want to punish happiness and zest for life out of our dog? No, we simply want them to be quiet, so let’s harness that energy and enthusiasm and redirect it to something more productive and fun. 

Try to address your dog calmly and quietly (I do understand how difficult this can be). Calmness begets calmness. Even better, seek out the underlying reason for your dog’s barking and go from there. It only serves to frustrate both you and your dog if you just get mad at him but don’t do anything to change the situation or remove the trigger.

Dogs don’t have spoken language as we do, so they use sounds and body language to communicate. Don’t ignore your dog’s communication, the better you understand your dog, the better (and less strained) your relationship will be.

Please see my Spring Fever and Boredom Busters blog posts for more helpful tips.

Keep in mind that dogs do bark and they will always bark, the idea here is to have them bark less.  If you are having difficulty with complaints from a neighbour, consider writing them a friendly and apologetic note (maybe include a pair of ear plugs!) or have an in-person conversation and explain that you are working on the problem and appreciate their patience.  If you continue to have difficulty after trying all of the above suggestions, you may want to seek out a professional trainer for assistance. Good luck!

Two books I would recommend for better understanding and managing barking are:

Barking, the Sound of a Language by Turid Rugaas

and

The Bark Stops Here by Terry Ryan

(Please price-check books before purchasing, as sometimes re-sellers mark up the prices)









For a complete listing of all our blog posts, please visit the main page at http://pawsitivepooch.blogspot.ca

To learn more about us, please visit our website at www.PawsitivePooch.ca 

or

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About the Trainer:

Jillian is a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT-KA), meaning her knowledge on animal learning theory, husbandry, health, ethology, training equipment, and instructing skills have all been evaluated to the standard of the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers.  This also includes adherence to a code of ethics and to the humane hierarchy for animal training. 

Jillian is a Fear-Free Certified Professional.  To learn more about this certification, please visit http://www.vetfolio.com/fear-free-certification




This post was originally part of my contribution to the #Train4Rewards blog party, hosted by Zazie Todd, PhD, of Companion Animal Psychology.  Due to popular demand, I have since expanded on this particular topic.

The Winnipeg Humane Society also has a blog post on the topic for further ideas and tips: http://www.winnipeghumanesociety.ca/pet-owners/yelp-line/barking/ 

#Train4Rewards Blog Party!

Welcome to my Dog Tales Blog.  

I am excited to participate in a #Train4Rewards blog party, hosted by Zazie Todd, PhD, of Companion Animal Psychology 

For my blog post, I decided to answer some questions from my clients or followers on Facebook.  Here are just a few of the questions I received.

Question #1: Crate Training a Puppy

Sheila asks: “We are trying to crate train our 10 week old puppy and though she does quiet down after a while, I am worried she is starting to fear going in. We are in and out every day and she could go in for up to an hour or 2 at a time each outing. She is resisting going in and is sometimes wet with saliva when she comes out.. night time is much better though.. any tips or advice?” 

Hi Sheila,

Thank you for your question, and congratulations on your new furry family member :) 

I think your concern is valid, dogs often drool when they are stressed, but don't let her stress cause you stress.  The good news is that it can be fairly straightforward to help a puppy feel more comfortable in a crate, especially at her young age.  

You can start out by ensuring your pup has positive associations with being in the kennel.  You can do this by:

• Ensuring your voice and body language are light and friendly whenever putting her in.  Don't use it as a harsh punishment or use a harsh tone of voice when asking her to enter. 
• Provide positive and safe items for her to chew on or play with while in the kennel: I like stuffed Kongs the best as they are very durable and you can fill them with puppy food, wet food, a few treats, anything to keep her busy and enjoying herself.
• You can also feed her meals in her kennel with the door open, so she can enjoy eating and then exit when finished.  
• Provide safe toys (that she cannot destroy and potentially ingest) that she likes.  Our Boredom Busters blog post may provide some helpful ideas.  
• Play some calming music (classical or other soft music) or talk radio when you are out and leaving her alone in the kennel.  
• If you use a wire kennel, place a light blanket over top to create a "roof", some dogs feel more comfortable in a den-like environment and feel safer with a roof over their head.  Ensure there is still one side open (i.e. the door is not covered by a blanket) to allow air to move through, you may want to leave a fan turned on in the room on hot days.  
• Wear an old t-shirt to bed and then leave it in the kennel for your puppy, your scent may be calming for her.  Be aware that she may chew on it, so choose one you don't mind giving up! 

Teaching your puppy to go in her kennel on cue can help her feel more in control of the situation and can eliminate the resistance because she chooses to go in on her own rather than being put in.   I have included a (rough, unpolished and unedited) video tutorial that may help.  

Keep in mind that it is very common for puppies at 10 weeks of age to begin to "make strange" and be more nervous of things than they were previously.  This is normal as puppy learns what in her world is safe and what is not.  The important thing is to be patient through this phase and as long as you keep the associations with the kennel positive, she will likely adjust very quickly.  If you find she continues to be stressed out in her kennel (excessive drooling, resisting going in, trying to dig her way out) after trying all of the above suggestions, you may want to seek out a professional trainer for assistance.  Good luck!

Question #2: Nuisance Barking 

Caitlin asks: “Barking! How do I get the pugs to stop barking when they are in the yard. I can't leave them out for very long because they will just stand there and bark and every single sound. If there is a neighbour in either yard the small one will stand right at the fence and bark at them..forever. :( help! It's embarrassing.”

Hi Caitlin!  This is a tough one because barking is what we call a self-reinforcing behaviour: it often feels good for the dog to bark.  Dogs bark for a variety of reasons: boredom, excitement, fear/alarm barking, to solicit attention, being protective or territorial, just to name a few.

There are two approaches for dealing with this behaviour, and I recommend doing both: management and training an alternative behaviour.

Management Options:

• Don't leave the dogs outside unsupervised, let them out for a potty and then bring them back in.  Take them for walks on leash for exercise and stimulation so they are not allowed to continue practicing this behaviour. 
• Plant shrubs, add fencing, or add something along your fence line that somewhat obstructs your dogs' view of your neighbour to reduce the stimulation and trigger for this barking.  

Training Options:

• Train an alternative behaviour for the specific triggers, such as seeing your neighbour.  While inside the house, teach your dog the behaviour you want him to do instead of barking, such as "touch" (target nose to hand) for example:

• Once your dogs have learned this behaviour in the house, go outside with some kibble or treats in your pocket along with your clicker if you use one.  When the dog notices something (turns head towards a sound, perks ears up, etc.), call them and ask for "touch" before they start barking. 
• You can try any alternative behaviour you like: sit, down, mat, watch me (eye contact), or go get a toy.  I like go get a toy, touch, or lay down the best because a dog is much less likely to bark when they are doing these behaviours. 
• The downside to this is that you have to be outside with your dogs and on alert at all times during your training period (it can take about 5-6 weeks to break old habits), which is why it's a very good idea to utilize the management techniques listed above in combination with your behaviour modification so that you have fewer opportunities for your dogs to practice the undesired behaviour.  

Keep in mind that dogs do bark and they will always bark, the idea here is to have them bark less.  If you continue to have difficulty after trying all of the above suggestions, you may want to seek out a professional trainer for assistance.  Good luck! 

Question #3: Dogs Pawing at & Sitting on Us

Barbara asks: “Why do our dogs put their paws on us or back into us and sit in our laps; 60 pound dogs that is :-)”

Great question, Barbara!  I don't have any scientific studies to cite, but here is my professional opinion based on extensive experience and knowledge of dog behaviour and communication.  

Dogs make contact with us to solicit attention, seek social contact, or to seek comfort or reassurance.  

There was a great article on the ASPCA website recently called "Dogs Don't Touch You by Accident" by Dr. Emily Weiss.

There's also a cute Bark Post article on how our dogs are communicating affection with us: http://barkpost.com/ways-dogs-say-i-love-you 

Regardless of their size, when a dog is gently and calmly seeking physical contact with us, it is just that, they want to be close to us.  

Question #4: Resource Guarding 

Diane asks: “How do you get a dog to 'drop it' when she takes something she is not allowed to have. Mousse will growl and has even snapped at me when I try.”

Hi Diane, I'm glad you asked, resource guarding can be a serious issue if not dealt with appropriately and quickly.  The best starting place is to teach the cue "drop it" with much easier items first - items that your dog will take in her mouth, but is not resistant to giving up if you try to take them.  This way you can teach the cue "drop it" without having a stand off.  

Start by offering her a toy that she will take in her mouth, then show her a treat and say "drop".  When she drops the toy to take the treat, click your clicker, then give her the treat.  Repeat this three times.  Then on the fourth time, give her the toy or item and say "drop it" without showing her the treat first.  Then click if she drops it.  If she doesn't drop it, count to 10 seconds in your head (without saying or doing anything further - give her a moment to process) and if she still hasn't dropped it, just get up and walk away from her.  If she follows you to drop it, turn around and reward her.  

As before, the other piece of changing behaviour is to set up the environment for success.  As much as humanly possible (which I understand is difficult in a busy household with kids and a puppy!), keep anything you don't want her to chew completely out of reach.  If she gets something she should not have, evaluate.  Is it something that you don't want wrecked?  Is it something that could be dangerous for her?  If yes, go and get something better (a treat) and ask for a trade.  If it's something that won't hurt her and that is not an important item, just walk away from her and do something interesting (like play with a ball) and she will likely loose interest and come to see what you are doing.  

Are you rewarding her for getting things she shouldn't?  No, you are rewarding her for giving them up.  The important piece is that you're practicing this behaviour with other items every day, multiple times, so that it doesn't just happen when she sneaks something she wasn't supposed to have.  The second most important thing is that you are doing your very best to ensure she does not have a chance to get those forbidden items so you don't have to resort to a trade.  This may include confining your pup when you can't supervise her so that she cannot get into trouble.  And the third most important piece is that you are avoiding and preventing the stand-offs.  Remember, we want to prevent our dogs from practicing unwanted behaviour in the first place, which includes trying to remove the item so that the dog growls or snaps at us and then we must back off to avoid a bite.  We want to avoid the confrontation in the first place so that you and your dog are not put into a no-win situation.  

A fantastic book on the topic of resource guarding is called "Mine!" by Jean Donaldson and can be purchased through Amazon.ca or on DogWise.com. 

As I mentioned, resource guarding can be a serious issue, especially when there are children in the home, so please contact a qualified professional trainer for assistance if this persists.  Good luck!

Thank you to everyone who submitted a question.  I will continue to work on this and other blog posts in order to answer the remainder of questions that came in, so please check back for updates.  Remember that reading materials are a general guideline only and for serious behaviour issues you should contact a qualified professional trainer for assistance.  If you would like to book an appointment, please contact Jillian.

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About the Trainer:

Jillian is a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT-KA), meaning her knowledge on animal learning theory, husbandry, health, ethology, training equipment, and instructing skills have all been evaluated to the standard of the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers.  This also includes adherence to a code of ethics and to the humane hierarchy for animal training.  

Finding a Trainer

Finding a Qualified Dog Trainer

If you need help with your dog's behaviour there are important factors to keep in mind.

Did you know that anyone can call themselves a trainer with no credentials? If you are looking for a trainer, please ask any questions you have to ensure you know who you are hiring! Ask about their philosophy, their education and experience, ask to see proof of their credentials. Ask "What happens if my dog gets it wrong?" and "what happens if my dog gets it right?" If you are not satisfied with the answer, keep looking. Keep your pets safe and engage the help of qualified, evidence-based trainers.

Important points to look for in a dog trainer:

• Some kind of certification and/or formal education (look into where the certification or degree comes from to ensure it is a reputable source).  
• If they say they are certified but don't elaborate, ask where and how they attained their certification and what was required of them to achieve the title.  
• A working knowledge of animal behaviour, development, body language, and learning theory. 
• A variety of positive approaches and an ability to be flexible to fit the needs of individual dogs and their families (for example, using a variety of reinforcers such as treats, toys, play, praise, pets, exercise, whatever motivates the dog).  
• Your trainer needs to be able to explain to you what they are doing, why they are doing it, and how you will be able to do it once they leave.  They are not a magician, they are a teacher, and their job is to educate and empower you to understand how your dog learns and how to get desired behaviours from your dog.  This should be done in a way that works for you and your family and in a way that helps strengthen your relationship with your dog.

 Red flags to be wary of:

• The trainer or company offers a "100% guarantee" or any kind of guarantee.  Dogs and all animals are dynamic, individual living creatures and there is absolutely no ethical way to guarantee specific results.  
• The trainer simply uses experience as their credentials.  Anyone can perform any activity the wrong way for decades.  While hands-on experience is extremely valuable, it must be combined with academic study and a drive for continuous professional growth.  
• Gimmicks.  If the trainer's website uses slogans that belong in a late-night infomercial, click on.  Claims referring to a "secret" method or a one-of-a-kind approach?  They're one-of-a-kind for a reason.  Science belongs to everyone and the behavioural sciences should be part of every trainer's toolkit. 
• The trainer uses wolf behaviour as an analogy or explanation of dog behaviour.  Dogs are descendants from wolves and are genetically nearly identical to wolves, but behaviourally they are extremely different.  Dogs are domesticated animals and have learned to cooperate and live peacefully with humans, which is why their species has been so successful.  For more on this topic, I recommend the book "Dogs" by the Coppingers. 
  
• The trainer uses dominance or similar theory to justify harsh methods: aversives, punishment, pain, intimidation, bullying, fear, etc.  

Dominance hierarchy is defined as "a social ranking within a group, in which some individuals give way to others, often conceding useful resources to others without a fight" (Alcock, 2013).

You already control your dogs' treats, meal times, walks, toys, access to water, play time, affection, comfy sleeping locations, shelter, fresh air, exercise.... (I could go on).  There is absolutely no need for us to be mean to our dogs in order to show them who is boss.

Aggression is defined as "hostile or violent behaviour or attitudes toward another; readiness to attack or confront.   The action of attacking without provocation, forceful and sometimes overly assertive pursuit of one's aims and interests."

Dominance and aggression are two very distinct concepts and a trainer must know understand the difference.  For a great lecture on this topic, visit Clive Wynne's YouTube Channel:

Remember, we invited our dogs into our homes to be loving members of our families.  When things go wrong what we really want is peace.  Aggression does not lead to peace, aggression begets further aggression.  Challenging behaviours in our dogs can really take a toll on us and on our families, I understand the desperation and fear in not knowing where to turn.  When we can help people and dogs through really difficult times in a way that helps repair and rebuild their relationships, there is no need to use methods that create division and discord between human and their companion dog.  When we can look at our dogs with the understanding that they are only doing what works for them, we can dilute the anger and resentment and realize that we just need to show them a better way.  And my hope is our wonderful community of evidence-based, force-free trainers can continue to be part of showing the humans a better way.

If you need help with your dog's behaviour there are important factors to keep in mind.

Did you know that anyone can call themselves a trainer with no credentials? If you are looking for a trainer, please ask any questions you have to ensure you know who you are hiring! Ask about their philosophy, their education and experience, ask to see proof of their credentials. Ask "What happens if my dog gets it wrong?" and "what happens if my dog gets it right?" If you are not satisfied with the answer, keep looking. Keep your pets safe and engage the help of qualified, evidence-based trainers.

The APDT website has an excellent article on the topic: https://apdt.com/resource-center/how-to-choose-a-dog-trainer/ wherein they list their seven most important questions to ask of a potential trainer.

And here are my answers to those questions:

1.  What method of training do you use?

• I use primarily positive-reinforcement based training.  This means I seek to find out what motivates the dog (i..e toys, play, praise, treats, exercise, etc.) and use those rewards to teach the dog the behaviours we need or want him to learn.  
• I use the least invasive, minimally aversive methods.  This means I strenuously avoid the use of any intimidation, pain, coercion, and seek to use behavioural sciences to elicit desirable behaviour rather than forcing it out of the dog.  
• I use the behavioural sciences to inform my training and am continuously adapting my approach to meet the needs of the dogs and their families.  

2.  What is your educational background in the area of dog training?

• I have a degree in Psychology with a focus on animal behaviour and learning 
• I have worked as a professional dog trainer for six years, including teaching classes, working at our local humane society, and doing private consults through my business.  
• I am a certified professional dog trainer (CPDT-KA), this means means that my knowledge on animal learning theory, husbandry, health, ethology, training equipment, and instructing skills have all been evaluated to the standard of the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers.  This also includes adherence to a code of ethics and to the humane hierarchy for animal training.  

3.  What is some recent continuing education that you have attended?

• In November 2016 I completed a 9-hour course to become Fear-Free Certified.  This course focused on helping animals experience less stress at the veterinary hospital and on implementing low-stress, gentle handling techniques during vet visits.
• In June 2015 I travelled to Toronto and attended a workshop called "Getting In Shape", a seminar on shaping behaviours using clicker training
• In March 2015 I received my CPDT-KA (Certified Professional Dog Trainer - Knowledge Assessed) designation, after many months of study and an extensive examination encompassing animal learning theory, husbandry, health, ethology, training equipment, and instructing skills.
• In May of 2014 and 2011 I attended conferences put on my PABA (Professional Animal Behaviour Associates).  These were two day symposiums with a number of different speakers on a variety of topics. 
• In October 2011 I attended a huge dog-training conference put on my the Association of Pet Dog Trainers in San Diego, California.  It is a week-long conference filled with wonderful, knowledgeable speakers and great opportunities to learn and grow as a professional.  

4.  What equipment do you use?

• My most basic equipment is a clicker and treats.  I use my brain (instead of my body) to train.  
• As training aids I sometimes use or recommend gentle leader head halters, no-pull harnesses, long leads, and similar pain-free management tools.  

5.  What kind of follow-up do you provide to your clients?

• After my training sessions I follow-up with an email summarizing the content of the session as a refresher and to invite any questions that my clients may have.  I also provide recommendations for reading, classes, and any other resources I feel they may find helpful. 
• I am available for follow-up questions or assistance throughout the process.

4.  Can you provide a list of clients we can contact for references?

• Yes.  If a prospective client asks for references, I can provide them.  

5.  Do you belong to any professional associations?

• Yes, I am a member of the Association of Professional Dog Trainers and the Pet Professionals Guild.

6.  What are your credentials and do you have any certifications?

• As mentioned above, I am a certified professional dog trainer (CPDT-KA) 
  
• This means means that my knowledge on animal learning theory, husbandry, health, ethology, training equipment, and instructing skills have all been evaluated to the standard of the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers.  This also includes adherence to a code of ethics and to the humane hierarchy for animal training. 
• I am also fear-free certified - this certification was focused on helping animals experience less stress at the veterinary hospital and on implementing low-stress, gentle handling techniques during vet visits.

7.  What sort of services do you provide for pet owners? Do you provide specialized services?

• In addition to private training services, my company also provides dog walking and pet sitting services.  
• This means that progress your dog has made can be continued because of the consistency we can offer. 
• You can continue to work with someone you have developed a trusting relationship with and with whom you and your dog are both comfortable.  

Transparency in Dog Training

Jean Donaldson from the Academy of Dog Trainers recommends asking a prospective trainer the three questions listed in the graphic above.

1.  What exactly will happen to my dog if my dog gets it right?

• Click & treat!  
• Your dog will receive a reward marker (saying "yes", "good", or using a clicker to mark the desired behaviour), followed by a reinforcer.  A reinforcer can be a treat, throwing a toy, or some other stimulus the dog finds rewarding to increase the likelihood of the behaviour happening again.  

2.  What exactly will happen to my dog if my dog gets it wrong?

• The behaviour might be ignored.  Pretend it didn't happen, reset, try again.
• We might back up a step.  If we moved too quickly and the dog wasn't understanding what we wanted, we can go back, make it more clear for the dog, then move forward again.  
• Change the environment to set the dog up for success.
• Change the reinforcer to help motivate the dog.  
• Re-evaluate our training plan - see what mistakes we might be making and try something different.  Every dog is an individual and we must be creative and flexible.  
• We do not use positive punishment to "correct" undesired behaviours, we aim to replace them with desirable behaviours.  We do not use choke, shock, or prong collars, nor do we ever hit, harm, or attempt to scare or intimidate any animal into doing what we want.

3.  Are there less invasive/aversive alternatives to what you propose? 

• Our aim is to focus on using positive reinforcement to increase desirable behaviours.  
• If ever anything does not feel right for you or your pet, please let us know right away and we will come up with a different plan together.  
• Training your pet must be collaborative.  As a trainer, we are only with you for a short period of time.  You must feel comfortable to move forward with the tools and strategies given and be able to do them on your own.  
• Our job is to empower you and support you to meet your training goals and solidify your relationship with your pet! 

Companion Animal Psychology has an excellent post on this very question: https://www.companionanimalpsychology.com/2016/12/how-to-choose-dog-trainer.html

I Speak Dog has a great article on this subject: http://www.ispeakdog.org/how-to-choose-a-dog-trainer.html

Dog Star Daily also has an article on the topic: http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/when-choosing-dog-trainer-buyer-beware by Dr. Ian Dunbar.

To learn more about us, please visit our website:

PawsitiveCare.ca







And visit us on Facebook:

Facebook.com/PawsPetMB


Reference
Alcock, John. (2013). Animal Behavior: An Evolutionary Approach. Sunderland, MA: Sinauer Associates, Inc.

Addendum:  We later added another blog post explaining why we use positive reinforcement and a fear free approach in the delivery of all our services.  Pawsitive = Fear free, force free.   

Puppy Nipping & Chewing

Bite Inhibition (Puppy Nipping) 

It is very important to remember that all puppies need to be able to bite and chew so they learn about the strength and power of their jaws and teeth and, most importantly, learn how to control them.  It is very important  that they have safe and appropriate outlets, such as chew toys, for the very normal mouthing and chewing behaviours.  Chewing and performing natural doggy behaviours is enriching and enjoyable for them. 

Lesson #1 in Puppyhood: No Painful Bites

If you’re playing with puppy and he hurts you, say “ouch!” or make a little yelp sound and stop playing for a moment, keeping your body still and removing your attention from puppy (but keeping him in the corner of your eye so you can observe his reaction).  Most puppies will stop what they're doing and look at you, and if he does this, praise him and resume playing with an appropriate toy.  Sometimes yelping excites the puppy, in which case it will be more effective to just stop playing briefly, and then redirect to a toy, without using any verbal indicators.

If during play puppy gets carried away, leave the room for a moment: just 3-5 seconds at first, and then increase to 5-10 seconds if the nipping behaviours continue when you return.  Puppy will learn that if he bites the fun play time stops, and he will start to learn to better control his mouth.  

The best set up for this is to play near a door, baby gate, or X-Pen so you can stand up and leave puppy on the other side of the baby gate for a brief moment.  The quicker you can leave, the more the puppy will be able to make the connection between nipping and the "time out" (pause in play).   Remember that puppies have short attention spans and even shorter memories.  

Remember:  ALL puppies nip, this is very normal in puppy development, and a necessary part of their social and physical development.  They will grow out of this phase with patience and consistent redirection.  Puppies also start to lose those very sharp teeth around 3 months of age, so the mouthing behaviours will be less painful, provided the puppy is learning bite inhibition through socialization and play before then.  

True story.

If puppy gets over-stimulated and follows biting at your feet, or otherwise continues nipping, leave the room out of his sight for 10-12 seconds.  Return and resume playing, but get up and leave briefly again if he resumes biting.  Very short mini "time-outs" and an opportunity to try again help the puppy learn that the person leaving is a direct result of his behaviour. 

It's also totally okay for the human(s) to need and take a "time out" from puppy as well.  Provide a safe space, such as an X-Pen, for puppy to hang out in while the humans are not supervising.  When you need a break from puppy, this can help puppy learn to entertain himself and gives puppy some needed downtime too.  Don't forget, puppies need a lot of sleep and rest, they are growing little pooches!  

Lesson #2 in Puppyhood:  Appropriate Items

If puppy is using your arm or leg as a chew toy, getting up and leaving is still an option.  Another option is to (after you've removed puppy from your appendage!) offer an appropriate item for chewing.  This can be a rope toy, squeaky toy, Kong, etc.  We have a blog post all about stuffing and preparing Kongs for puppies and dogs of all ages to enjoy :)  We also have another blog post called "Boredom Busters" for further ideas for keeping your pets entertained at home.  

Puppies need options for doing the right thing so that they know what they can and cannot chew on.  When puppy makes the right choice, celebrate!  Praise him, play with him, show him that chewing on the toy will allow fun and play to happen.

Important: Do Not "Bite" Back

Although it can be tempting to punish puppy for this behaviour (those sharp puppy teeth hurt!), this can cause one of two problems: either puppy becomes afraid of you or puppy thinks you're playing roughly and comes back biting even harder.  

Puppies need opportunities to learn that their nipping hurts and that people won't play with them if they bite.  Puppies need opportunities to play using their mouths so they can learn to use them softly without hurting.  

Puppies also need to develop a trust and bond with their people and if they become fearful they may develop aggression issues as they mature as a result of feeling the need to defend themselves.  Puppies are not trying to hurt us intentionally, they have poor impulse control and a poor sense of the strength of their mouths, so it's up to us to teach them what is acceptable. 

Aggression begets aggression: if we are rough with our puppies, they are more likely to be rough with us.  While it certainly can be very enjoyable to wrestle and play tug with our puppies, it's important to set up boundaries for these activities and be consistent in maintaining those rules during play time, and to give puppies breaks to settle when they get overly excited.

Whether or not you have any behavioural concerns, we highly recommend ALL puppies attend a positive, well-run puppy socialization class.  Puppies have a short window (called a critical period) for socialization and a good puppy class will help your puppy create positive associations with as many things in their world as possible.  Please feel free to email us at Jillian@PawsitiveCare.ca for a recommendation.

Dog Stair Daily also has FREE books on raising puppies available for download:

 http://www.dogstardaily.com/free-downloads





If you have children in the home, always supervise their interactions with puppies.  Even small puppies can cause injury to children completely by accident, particularly because children often get down to puppy's level and are frequently nose-to-nose, creating a greater risk for a facial injury.  Likewise, children can cause fear or harm to puppies completely innocently as they do not always understand how their behaviour impacts the puppy.  It's important to have a "safe" zone where puppy goes for a rest and for a break when he can't be supervised by an adult.  

Finally, if your puppy is driving you crazy (we're human, it happens!), try some of our boredom buster ideas: http://pawsitivepooch.blogspot.ca/2015/10/boredom-busters-for-dogs.html

And if you need some tips for housetraining, visit our potty training blog post: http://pawsitivepooch.blogspot.ca/2015/07/puppy-potty-training-house-breaking.html 

Jillian Enright, CPDT-KA

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Visit our website: PawsitiveCare.ca

Remember Pavlov?

Practical Uses for Classical Conditioning

For a good basic explanation of the
Pavlovian experiments, please visit
http://www.simplypsychology.org/pavlov.html

A couple of upsetting scenes got me thinking about classical conditioning and canine behaviour (again.  It's a never-ending train of thought in the back of my nerdy mind).

The first one happened in the summer: I was walking two dogs through Assiniboine Park on a busy day and a man and woman were standing on a hill overlooking the pathway.  Every time someone would walk by with a dog, their dog would react with barking, pulling on the leash, and whining.  The man was attempting to punish the behaviour out of the dog: He was setting him up to fail by having him so close to the path that he couldn't control his reaction, ensuring he would react, and then hitting him every time he did react.

The other two incidents happened in the last month: One was a lady walking her two large dogs on prong collars.  Similarly, they got excited when they saw another dog and started to react with barking, whining, and pulling on leash.  The lady very harshly corrected them, yanking on the leash to tighten the collar around their necks, and scolding them loudly to "STOP".  The third one happened just last week: A lady was again walking two dogs and I was across the street walking a dog as well.  Her dog got excited and was barking and whining, looking at the dog I was walking.  The lady turned and yelled at her dog, kicking it, and kneeing it until it backed up and paid attention to her.

Now, even if these owners weren't hurting their dogs (I'm sure they were, but let's pretend the punishment wasn't physically painful), the whole point was to stop the dogs from reacting this way and what they were doing was the complete opposite.  I am sure these people love their dogs very much, and that their intent was to improve their behaviour, unfortunately dogs don't know our intent, only what they experience.

If you are afraid of spiders and see one in your kitchen, what do you do?  Scream, squeal, yell for someone to come squish it, run away?  What if you were trapped in the room (like a dog on a leash unable to move away)?

What if someone scolded you or kicked you in the shin because you were afraid?  How would you feel about the spider then?  How about the person who scolded you or kicked your leg?  What would you do the next time you saw a spider in your kitchen, would you feel more or less upset?

A conditioned emotional response is one that is brought about by associations.  When you bring your dog's leash out, does he do a happy dance, wagging his tail and excitedly moving towards the door in anticipation of his walk?  When he hears that familiar rattle of the treat bag, does he come running, offering you his best sit in anticipation of a cookie?  Your dog doesn't have a thing for nylon or plastic, those associations were learned by pairings, making them conditioned emotional responses.  The difference is these are positive emotional responses: leash=enjoying a walk, plastic bag=eating a yummy treat.

Negative emotional responses come about when seeing another dog=getting smacked, kicked, or choked.  How do you expect those dogs to react next time they see another dog?  If the punishment is severe enough, they may learn to suppress their response and keep quiet, but that sure won't change how they feel.  In fact, I would wager that they feel more anxious because they're not allowed to respond for fear of punishment.

A more effective, kinder way is possible.  Create positive associations with the feared object and this will get you on the right path to helping your dog feel more comfortable.

Don’t worry about rewarding your dog's unwanted behaviour (barking, pulling, lunging, whatever he may be doing).  Counter-conditioning means that you are trying to change how your dog FEELS first, which in turn will change how he behaves. A fearful dog will act defensively. A comfortable dog will not. You cannot change your dog's behaviour until you have helped him feel safe.

If you need help with this, contacted a certified trainer in your area.



Donna Hill has a great video on teaching the "look at that" game, based on Leslie McDevitt's "Control Unleashed" program.

If you want to learn more, I have two blogs on Dog Reactivity: Understanding Dog Reactivity and Reactive Dog Myths, and Karen Pryor has a brief article further explaining the benefit of the "look at that" exercise.

Classical Conditioning is not just for reactivity, it's part of everyday learning.  You can use it to help your dog feel more comfortable with being in a kennel, with meeting new people, going to the vet, or just about anything that could potentially make them anxious.  But don't wait until your pup is anxious to start classical conditioning!  Socialize your pup as early as possible in controlled, relaxed, positive situations and you can go a long way in preventing your pup from developing fears or reactive behaviours.

Jillian Enright, CPDT-KA
Pawsitive Pooch Dog Training

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Reliable Recall

Recall:  The Basics

To have a strong recall you must have a solid foundation upon which to build.  If your dog’s recall is not excellent, especially in the presence of distractions, then it is important to start from square one.  A reliable recall is one of the most important behaviours our dogs can learn; it can keep them safe in an unpredictable situation.  

Helpful Steps for getting started:

1. Let your dog wander around in a safely contained area  (i.e. a fully fenced back yard or inside the house).
2. When your dog is not looking at you, call his name to get his attention.  As soon as you have his attention, in your most cheerful and inviting voice, call “come!”
3. As your dog is moving towards you, you can encourage him with a happy voice, but don't repeat your cue (such as "come").  If your dog does not come running, start moving backwards and patting your legs, you can also make kissing sounds or whistle to help entice your dog towards you.
4. Touch your dog around the neck or on his collar with one hand and click with the other hand, taking care not to click in your dog’s ear, and give him a treat.  The reason for making physical contact is that you want to ensure your dog comes close enough that you could leash him up if you needed to, you don't want him dodging away if you reach for him.  If your dog is nervous about hands reaching over his head or about having his collar touched, practice some desensitization for this as a separate exercise.  
5. Then let go and use your release word  (i.e. “free”, “break”, “okay”, etc.), allow your dog to return to playing or doing something fun.  You do not want him to think that recall predicts fun coming to an end.  

IMPORTANT:

It is never a good idea to punish your dog after he’s come to you.  Even if you were chasing him around the yard for an hour and are extremely frustrated, it is still very important to reward him when he finally gets to you.  If he gets in trouble when he finally does come back, he will be more likely to avoid you in the future.  Next time start inside where there are fewer distractions to help build up a history of reinforcement.  Set yourselves up for success.  If recall is associated with being punished your pooch is more likely to want to run in the other direction.

Make your recall reward the biggest and best (yummiest) reward your dog gets during his training.  Recall is a very important behaviour and cue your dog needs to know, so make it fun and rewarding.  Remember to only say the word “come” once.  If he doesn’t come right away, do other things to make yourself more exciting.  

Do not repeat the cue or  he will learn the cue for recall is “come, come,  come,  Fido,  come,  Fido,  GET  OVER  HERE!!”  (You  get  the  idea  ☺)

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