Sunday 17 April 2016

Finding a Trainer

Finding a Qualified Dog Trainer


If you need help with your dog's behaviour there are important factors to keep in mind.

Did you know that anyone can call themselves a trainer with no credentials? If you are looking for a trainer, please ask any questions you have to ensure you know who you are hiring! Ask about their philosophy, their education and experience, ask to see proof of their credentials. Ask "What happens if my dog gets it wrong?" and "what happens if my dog gets it right?" If you are not satisfied with the answer, keep looking. Keep your pets safe and engage the help of qualified, evidence-based trainers.

Important points to look for in a dog trainer:
  • Some kind of certification and/or formal education (look into where the certification or degree comes from to ensure it is a reputable source).  
  • If they say they are certified but don't elaborate, ask where and how they attained their certification and what was required of them to achieve the title.  
  • A working knowledge of animal behaviour, development, body language, and learning theory. 
  • A variety of positive approaches and an ability to be flexible to fit the needs of individual dogs and their families (for example, using a variety of reinforcers such as treats, toys, play, praise, pets, exercise, whatever motivates the dog).  
  • Your trainer needs to be able to explain to you what they are doing, why they are doing it, and how you will be able to do it once they leave.  They are not a magician, they are a teacher, and their job is to educate and empower you to understand how your dog learns and how to get desired behaviours from your dog.  This should be done in a way that works for you and your family and in a way that helps strengthen your relationship with your dog.

 Red flags to be wary of:
  • The trainer or company offers a "100% guarantee" or any kind of guarantee.  Dogs and all animals are dynamic, individual living creatures and there is absolutely no ethical way to guarantee specific results.  
  • The trainer simply uses experience as their credentials.  Anyone can perform any activity the wrong way for decades.  While hands-on experience is extremely valuable, it must be combined with academic study and a drive for continuous professional growth.  
  • Gimmicks.  If the trainer's website uses slogans that belong in a late-night infomercial, click on.  Claims referring to a "secret" method or a one-of-a-kind approach?  They're one-of-a-kind for a reason.  Science belongs to everyone and the behavioural sciences should be part of every trainer's toolkit. 
  • The trainer uses wolf behaviour as an analogy or explanation of dog behaviour.  Dogs are descendants from wolves and are genetically nearly identical to wolves, but behaviourally they are extremely different.  Dogs are domesticated animals and have learned to cooperate and live peacefully with humans, which is why their species has been so successful.  For more on this topic, I recommend the book "Dogs" by the Coppingers
  • The trainer uses dominance or similar theory to justify harsh methods: aversives, punishment, pain, intimidation, bullying, fear, etc.  
Dominance hierarchy is defined as "a social ranking within a group, in which some individuals give way to others, often conceding useful resources to others without a fight" (Alcock, 2013).

You already control your dogs' treats, meal times, walks, toys, access to water, play time, affection, comfy sleeping locations, shelter, fresh air, exercise.... (I could go on).  There is absolutely no need for us to be mean to our dogs in order to show them who is boss.

Aggression is defined as "hostile or violent behaviour or attitudes toward another; readiness to attack or confront.   The action of attacking without provocation, forceful and sometimes overly assertive pursuit of one's aims and interests."

Dominance and aggression are two very distinct concepts and a trainer must know understand the difference.  For a great lecture on this topic, visit Clive Wynne's YouTube Channel:


Remember, we invited our dogs into our homes to be loving members of our families.  When things go wrong what we really want is peace.  Aggression does not lead to peace, aggression begets further aggression.  Challenging behaviours in our dogs can really take a toll on us and on our families, I understand the desperation and fear in not knowing where to turn.  When we can help people and dogs through really difficult times in a way that helps repair and rebuild their relationships, there is no need to use methods that create division and discord between human and their companion dog.  When we can look at our dogs with the understanding that they are only doing what works for them, we can dilute the anger and resentment and realize that we just need to show them a better way.  And my hope is our wonderful community of evidence-based, force-free trainers can continue to be part of showing the humans a better way.


If you need help with your dog's behaviour there are important factors to keep in mind.

Did you know that anyone can call themselves a trainer with no credentials? If you are looking for a trainer, please ask any questions you have to ensure you know who you are hiring! Ask about their philosophy, their education and experience, ask to see proof of their credentials. Ask "What happens if my dog gets it wrong?" and "what happens if my dog gets it right?" If you are not satisfied with the answer, keep looking. Keep your pets safe and engage the help of qualified, evidence-based trainers.

The APDT website has an excellent article on the topic: https://apdt.com/resource-center/how-to-choose-a-dog-trainer/ wherein they list their seven most important questions to ask of a potential trainer.

And here are my answers to those questions:

1.  What method of training do you use?
  • I use primarily positive-reinforcement based training.  This means I seek to find out what motivates the dog (i..e toys, play, praise, treats, exercise, etc.) and use those rewards to teach the dog the behaviours we need or want him to learn.  
  • I use the least invasive, minimally aversive methods.  This means I strenuously avoid the use of any intimidation, pain, coercion, and seek to use behavioural sciences to elicit desirable behaviour rather than forcing it out of the dog.  
  • I use the behavioural sciences to inform my training and am continuously adapting my approach to meet the needs of the dogs and their families.  
2.  What is your educational background in the area of dog training?
  • I have a degree in Psychology with a focus on animal behaviour and learning 
  • I have worked as a professional dog trainer for six years, including teaching classes, working at our local humane society, and doing private consults through my business.  
  • I am a certified professional dog trainer (CPDT-KA), this means means that my knowledge on animal learning theory, husbandry, health, ethology, training equipment, and instructing skills have all been evaluated to the standard of the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers.  This also includes adherence to a code of ethics and to the humane hierarchy for animal training.  
3.  What is some recent continuing education that you have attended?
  • In November 2016 I completed a 9-hour course to become Fear-Free Certified.  This course focused on helping animals experience less stress at the veterinary hospital and on implementing low-stress, gentle handling techniques during vet visits.
  • In June 2015 I travelled to Toronto and attended a workshop called "Getting In Shape", a seminar on shaping behaviours using clicker training
  • In March 2015 I received my CPDT-KA (Certified Professional Dog Trainer - Knowledge Assessed) designation, after many months of study and an extensive examination encompassing animal learning theory, husbandry, health, ethology, training equipment, and instructing skills.
  • In May of 2014 and 2011 I attended conferences put on my PABA (Professional Animal Behaviour Associates).  These were two day symposiums with a number of different speakers on a variety of topics. 
  • In October 2011 I attended a huge dog-training conference put on my the Association of Pet Dog Trainers in San Diego, California.  It is a week-long conference filled with wonderful, knowledgeable speakers and great opportunities to learn and grow as a professional.  
4.  What equipment do you use?
  • My most basic equipment is a clicker and treats.  I use my brain (instead of my body) to train.  
  • As training aids I sometimes use or recommend gentle leader head halters, no-pull harnesses, long leads, and similar pain-free management tools.  
5.  What kind of follow-up do you provide to your clients?
  • After my training sessions I follow-up with an email summarizing the content of the session as a refresher and to invite any questions that my clients may have.  I also provide recommendations for reading, classes, and any other resources I feel they may find helpful. 
  • I am available for follow-up questions or assistance throughout the process.
4.  Can you provide a list of clients we can contact for references?
  • Yes.  If a prospective client asks for references, I can provide them.  
5.  Do you belong to any professional associations?
  • Yes, I am a member of the Association of Professional Dog Trainers and the Pet Professionals Guild.
6.  What are your credentials and do you have any certifications?
  • As mentioned above, I am a certified professional dog trainer (CPDT-KA) 
  • This means means that my knowledge on animal learning theory, husbandry, health, ethology, training equipment, and instructing skills have all been evaluated to the standard of the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers.  This also includes adherence to a code of ethics and to the humane hierarchy for animal training. 
  • I am also fear-free certified - this certification was focused on helping animals experience less stress at the veterinary hospital and on implementing low-stress, gentle handling techniques during vet visits.

7.  What sort of services do you provide for pet owners? Do you provide specialized services?
  • In addition to private training services, my company also provides dog walking and pet sitting services.  
  • This means that progress your dog has made can be continued because of the consistency we can offer. 
  • You can continue to work with someone you have developed a trusting relationship with and with whom you and your dog are both comfortable.  



Transparency in Dog Training


Jean Donaldson from the Academy of Dog Trainers recommends asking a prospective trainer the three questions listed in the graphic above.

1.  What exactly will happen to my dog if my dog gets it right?
  • Click & treat!  
  • Your dog will receive a reward marker (saying "yes", "good", or using a clicker to mark the desired behaviour), followed by a reinforcer.  A reinforcer can be a treat, throwing a toy, or some other stimulus the dog finds rewarding to increase the likelihood of the behaviour happening again.  
2.  What exactly will happen to my dog if my dog gets it wrong?
  • The behaviour might be ignored.  Pretend it didn't happen, reset, try again.
  • We might back up a step.  If we moved too quickly and the dog wasn't understanding what we wanted, we can go back, make it more clear for the dog, then move forward again.  
  • Change the environment to set the dog up for success.
  • Change the reinforcer to help motivate the dog.  
  • Re-evaluate our training plan - see what mistakes we might be making and try something different.  Every dog is an individual and we must be creative and flexible.  
  • We do not use positive punishment to "correct" undesired behaviours, we aim to replace them with desirable behaviours.  We do not use choke, shock, or prong collars, nor do we ever hit, harm, or attempt to scare or intimidate any animal into doing what we want.
3.  Are there less invasive/aversive alternatives to what you propose? 
  • Our aim is to focus on using positive reinforcement to increase desirable behaviours.  
  • If ever anything does not feel right for you or your pet, please let us know right away and we will come up with a different plan together.  
  • Training your pet must be collaborative.  As a trainer, we are only with you for a short period of time.  You must feel comfortable to move forward with the tools and strategies given and be able to do them on your own.  
  • Our job is to empower you and support you to meet your training goals and solidify your relationship with your pet! 

Companion Animal Psychology has an excellent post on this very question: https://www.companionanimalpsychology.com/2016/12/how-to-choose-dog-trainer.html

I Speak Dog has a great article on this subject: http://www.ispeakdog.org/how-to-choose-a-dog-trainer.html

Dog Star Daily also has an article on the topic: http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/when-choosing-dog-trainer-buyer-beware by Dr. Ian Dunbar.


To learn more about us, please visit our website:
PawsitiveCare.ca







And visit us on Facebook:
Facebook.com/PawsPetMB


Reference
Alcock, John. (2013). Animal Behavior: An Evolutionary Approach. Sunderland, MA: Sinauer Associates, Inc.

Addendum:  We later added another blog post explaining why we use positive reinforcement and a fear free approach in the delivery of all our services.  Pawsitive = Fear free, force free.   

Wednesday 6 April 2016

Puppy Nipping & Chewing

Bite Inhibition (Puppy Nipping) 

It is very important to remember that all puppies need to be able to bite and chew so they learn about the strength and power of their jaws and teeth and, most importantly, learn how to control them.  It is very important  that they have safe and appropriate outlets, such as chew toys, for the very normal mouthing and chewing behaviours.  Chewing and performing natural doggy behaviours is enriching and enjoyable for them. 



Lesson #1 in Puppyhood: No Painful Bites

If you’re playing with puppy and he hurts you, say “ouch!” or make a little yelp sound and stop playing for a moment, keeping your body still and removing your attention from puppy (but keeping him in the corner of your eye so you can observe his reaction).  Most puppies will stop what they're doing and look at you, and if he does this, praise him and resume playing with an appropriate toy.  Sometimes yelping excites the puppy, in which case it will be more effective to just stop playing briefly, and then redirect to a toy, without using any verbal indicators.

If during play puppy gets carried away, leave the room for a moment: just 3-5 seconds at first, and then increase to 5-10 seconds if the nipping behaviours continue when you return.  Puppy will learn that if he bites the fun play time stops, and he will start to learn to better control his mouth.  

The best set up for this is to play near a door, baby gate, or X-Pen so you can stand up and leave puppy on the other side of the baby gate for a brief moment.  The quicker you can leave, the more the puppy will be able to make the connection between nipping and the "time out" (pause in play).   Remember that puppies have short attention spans and even shorter memories.  

Remember:  ALL puppies nip, this is very normal in puppy development, and a necessary part of their social and physical development.  They will grow out of this phase with patience and consistent redirection.  Puppies also start to lose those very sharp teeth around 3 months of age, so the mouthing behaviours will be less painful, provided the puppy is learning bite inhibition through socialization and play before then.  

True story.

If puppy gets over-stimulated and follows biting at your feet, or otherwise continues nipping, leave the room out of his sight for 10-12 seconds.  Return and resume playing, but get up and leave briefly again if he resumes biting.  Very short mini "time-outs" and an opportunity to try again help the puppy learn that the person leaving is a direct result of his behaviour. 

It's also totally okay for the human(s) to need and take a "time out" from puppy as well.  Provide a safe space, such as an X-Pen, for puppy to hang out in while the humans are not supervising.  When you need a break from puppy, this can help puppy learn to entertain himself and gives puppy some needed downtime too.  Don't forget, puppies need a lot of sleep and rest, they are growing little pooches!  


Lesson #2 in Puppyhood:  Appropriate Items

If puppy is using your arm or leg as a chew toy, getting up and leaving is still an option.  Another option is to (after you've removed puppy from your appendage!) offer an appropriate item for chewing.  This can be a rope toy, squeaky toy, Kong, etc.  We have a blog post all about stuffing and preparing Kongs for puppies and dogs of all ages to enjoy :)  We also have another blog post called "Boredom Busters" for further ideas for keeping your pets entertained at home.  

Puppies need options for doing the right thing so that they know what they can and cannot chew on.  When puppy makes the right choice, celebrate!  Praise him, play with him, show him that chewing on the toy will allow fun and play to happen.


Important: Do Not "Bite" Back

Although it can be tempting to punish puppy for this behaviour (those sharp puppy teeth hurt!), this can cause one of two problems: either puppy becomes afraid of you or puppy thinks you're playing roughly and comes back biting even harder.  

Puppies need opportunities to learn that their nipping hurts and that people won't play with them if they bite.  Puppies need opportunities to play using their mouths so they can learn to use them softly without hurting.  

Puppies also need to develop a trust and bond with their people and if they become fearful they may develop aggression issues as they mature as a result of feeling the need to defend themselves.  Puppies are not trying to hurt us intentionally, they have poor impulse control and a poor sense of the strength of their mouths, so it's up to us to teach them what is acceptable. 

Aggression begets aggression: if we are rough with our puppies, they are more likely to be rough with us.  While it certainly can be very enjoyable to wrestle and play tug with our puppies, it's important to set up boundaries for these activities and be consistent in maintaining those rules during play time, and to give puppies breaks to settle when they get overly excited.

Whether or not you have any behavioural concerns, we highly recommend ALL puppies attend a positive, well-run puppy socialization class.  Puppies have a short window (called a critical period) for socialization and a good puppy class will help your puppy create positive associations with as many things in their world as possible.  Please feel free to email us at Jillian@PawsitiveCare.ca for a recommendation.


Dog Stair Daily also has FREE books on raising puppies available for download:
 http://www.dogstardaily.com/free-downloads





If you have children in the home, always supervise their interactions with puppies.  Even small puppies can cause injury to children completely by accident, particularly because children often get down to puppy's level and are frequently nose-to-nose, creating a greater risk for a facial injury.  Likewise, children can cause fear or harm to puppies completely innocently as they do not always understand how their behaviour impacts the puppy.  It's important to have a "safe" zone where puppy goes for a rest and for a break when he can't be supervised by an adult.  

Finally, if your puppy is driving you crazy (we're human, it happens!), try some of our boredom buster ideas: http://pawsitivepooch.blogspot.ca/2015/10/boredom-busters-for-dogs.html

And if you need some tips for housetraining, visit our potty training blog post: http://pawsitivepooch.blogspot.ca/2015/07/puppy-potty-training-house-breaking.html 

Jillian Enright, CPDT-KA




Visit our website: PawsitiveCare.ca