Desensitization to Handling

Helping Your Pet become Comfortable with Various types of Touch 

Important: Before beginning a desensitization program, please click here to read information on dog body language so you are able to read signs that your dog is uncomfortable or afraid while doing these exercises.  A fantastic in-depth book on dog body language is by Brenda Aloff, you can purchase from Amazon.ca, or directly from the author.  For something a little lighter, Truid Rugaas has a wonderful book on calming signals, and she has some excellent information available for free on her website.

If your dog has any potential health issues or you suspect handling issues could be due to physical pain, do not attempt any type of desensitization and consult your veterinarian.

Under the Chin

Dogs who are uncomfortable with touch are often most comfortable having their chin, the front of their neck, and/or their chest scratched or rubbed.  This is because a big hand is not coming down from over their head, and they can see the human that is making contact with them.  Scratch your dog under the chin for 3-5 seconds, then move away.  If your dog comes in for more, give him a good rub under the chin and say “good dog” in a soothing, happy voice.  If you move away and your dog does not come back for more, then leave him be for now.  Next time you pet him under the chin, provide treats as you are doing it so he begins to make positive associations with being touched.

Important notes about giving treats:

• Treats should be 10% or less of your dog's daily diet.  If you're doing training, use soft, enticing, low-calorie treats that can be broken into very small pieces.  Your dog only needs a little taste, not a large bite each time.  If you're unsure, or if your dog is already overweight, consult your veterinarian.  

• If you're needing to do something to your dog (i.e. he has an ear infection and absolutely needs drops in his ear) and need to make it the least distressing experience possible, then distract your dog while you're doing it.  Provide a licki-mat or Kong filled with yummy, healthy treats or canned wet food, or a soft spoon or spatula with some peanut butter.  The goal is to use something that will be long-lasting.  A great video of this approach is available on YouTube.
• Please note that this is not desensitization, this is making an unpleasant process minimally aversive.  In a more ideal situation, we've worked to desensitize our pets to various handling and procedures in a gentle and gradual manner over a long period of time, so that it's much easier when we need to administer medications or do otherwise unpleasant procedures.

• When you're using the treats for gradual desensitization, the order is very important.  The gentle and very brief touch has to happen first, before the treat, then pause, then deliver the treat separately from the touch.  Touch-pause-treat-stop.  The touch must predict the treat in order for the touch to become positively conditioned.  If you give the treat at the same time (as above), the dog will be distracted by the treat, but will not easily make the association.  If the treat comes before the touch, then the treat predicts the touch, and not the other way around.  This is how does can sometimes become mistrustful of hands reaching out offering them treats, they may have a history of being "bribed" into something unpleasant, this is not our goal.  
• A fantastic (although jargon-y) article on this topic is available here

Along the Back

Next, approach your dog from the side (this is least intimidating), and run your hand along his back. Do not touch his head or bum.  Give him treats for standing (or sitting) and allowing you to pet him, then move away.

Petting Your Dog’s Head

Next scratch your dog behind the ears while giving him treats.  If he shows signs of discomfort stop and come back to it later, making sure he’s always getting treats for allowing you to pet him.  If you move away and he comes back for more, pet him all over his head while giving him treats (remember: pet, pause, treat, stop).  Bring your hand in from the side so that he can see it coming, rather than over his head, as this can be very intimidating to a nervous dog.  Do this only for a short period of time so that he is still looking for more, rather than continuing to pet him until he is uncomfortable with it and moves away himself.

**Important: Keep an eye on your dog’s body language:  If he tenses up or growls, stop
immediately.  Do not put yourself at risk for a bite and do not set your dog up to fail.  Dogs cannot speak English, they only have their body language and growls to communicate, so please pay careful attention to what they are telling you and move at your dog’s pace.  When we respect their signals we build trust.

Bum & Tail

Dogs who are uncomfortable with touch are often most concerned about having their rear end and tail touched, likely because they cannot see what is happening (and because of sensitive areas in that region - think about how you might feel if you need a rectal exam from your doctor...).  Again, come in from the side so your dog can still see you, and go very slowly and gently, paying close attention to your dog’s body language.  Start at the shoulders/neck and slowly move your hand down towards the top of his tail.  Keep your hand on him as you move backwards, don't take your hand away and then touch him again, as this can surprise dogs and might cause them to startle or tense up.  Provide lots of treats for your dog allowing this contact (touch, pause, but keep your hand where it is if the dog is comfortable, treat, then stop).  Always stop if your dog is showing signs of being afraid or very uncomfortable.

Collar

Similar to the issues with touching a dog’s head, a lot of dogs have negative associations with having their collars grabbed.  A large hand is coming from above their head, and they often have their collars grabbed when they are in “trouble” or being taken to something unpleasant.  Gently touch your dog’s collar while giving him treats, touching it and sliding your hand under it in different places (touch, pause, but keep your hand where it is if the dog is comfortable, treat, stop).  Use a calm, soothing voice saying “good dog” - and did I mention give lots of treats (small, frequent amounts)?  This will make it much easier to gently guide your dog somewhere you want him to go, or to put him back on leash if he has been playing off-leash.

Paws and Nails 

Another very sensitive area for dogs can be their paws, and many dogs have issues with having their nails trimmed.  This is such a common issue that it will be an entirely separate blog post focusing on teaching paw targeting and desensitization to nail trims.

In the mean time, you can click here to view a helpful video on Fear Free nail trims.

KikoPup also has a fantastic video on desensitizing dogs to grooming and nail trims.


Remember:  These exercises are intended to help your dog to become more comfortable about being touched. This will make your dog’s life much easier, making vet visits, grooming, and interactions with humans much less stressful for him. This will also keep your family safer as a dog that is comfortable with touch is less likely to bite.

Please communicate with people if your dog is nervous and be an advocate for your dog.  If he is looking afraid, remove him from the situation.  Set yourself and your dog up for success – you will strengthen your relationship with your dog and help build his trust and confidence.

If you are unsure about how to do this, or if your dog has severe aversion to touch, please contact a competent and compassionate trainer to help you.  If you don't know how to find a qualified trainer, click here to read our blog post on finding a trainer.

If you are interested in our video consultations, please visit www.pawsitivepooch.ca/video-consultations.html to learn more.

If your dog has any potential health issues or you suspect handling issues could be due to physical pain, do not try desensitization and consult your veterinarian.

About The Author

Jillian is a fear-free certified and CPDT-KA certified animal behaviour specialist and has been working in the animal care and behaviour field since 2009.  

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